SquigglyTwigs Designs: Tuesday's Tute: Sweet Skirt

It really is a versatile and easy skirt to create. Curly made this doll skirt this evening, while I photographed her working. These skirts have been made the skirts in all sizes and fullness, and even without the ruffle. It's a favorite project at our sewing classes.

Please share photos of what you create, so we can all be inspired. Some of the skirt variations are pictured at the bottom of this post.

Materials:

Measuring Tape

Fabric: Do measurements and calculations before buying fabric.

Elastic: Enough 3/4" non-roll elastic to around the waist of the wearer.

Thread and sewing supplies

Large paper (optional)-if you want to create a paper pattern to make future skirts quicker.

Directions:

1. Measurements:
Waist:________
Hip: __________
Length of skirt (outseam):_______ How much of this do you want to be the ruffle?: We use 4" for people skirts._______

2. Work the formula:
-Skirt: hip + 4" (for an above the knee skirt) or more for a longer skirt with more fullness= A__________ (or you can measure the bottom of a favorite dress or skirt and use that measurement for A)
-Completed length – ruffle + 2" for casing and seam = B___________
-Ruffle: A x 1.5= C ___________
-Ruffle length + 1” for seam and hem = D_____________
You will want to write down these numbers for future use, or make a paper pattern.

2 a. 18" AG Style Doll Skirt Pattern Measurements

Skirt Width: A 16"

Skirt Length: B 6"

Ruffle Width: C 26"

Ruffle Length: D 3"

3. Cut Skirt Pieces:

You need to cut a rectangle(s) of fabric that is A (wide) by B (long).
For the doll skirt: Cut the skirt piece 16" x 6".

4. Cut Ruffle Pieces:
And cut a rectangle(s) of fabric that is C (wide) by D (long).
For the doll ruffle: Cut a the ruffle piece 26" by 3".

Pay attention that any directional print is right side up.

1/4" press (casing and hem)

1" press (casing)

5. Time to press (iron):
Press the top edge, of skirt, down 1/4" then 1 1/4" (1" for the doll skirt) more to form lines for casing.
Press bottom edge, of ruffle, up 1/4" and then 1/4" more to form lines for hem.
See our tutorial on hemming to make this go much quicker.

6. Time to sew:
Create Large Rectangles (larger skirt sizes):
If you have more than one skirt rectangle, sew one set of short sides together (wrong sides together) to create one larger rectangle. Do the same for the ruffle.

7. Gather:
Set your machine to gather: large top tension number, large stitch number.
Start with a long 5" or so thread tail. Do not knot/back tack. Sew a gathering (basting) stitch along the top edge of the ruffle. End with a long thread tail and do not knot. This tutorial has more detail on machine gathering.

8. Compare Skirt to Ruffle:

Lay the skirt and ruffle on the floor. Match the raw edges. Tape down one end of the ruffle. Pull the bobbin thread on the opposite end to shorten the ruffle or pull out some of the gathers to lengthen the ruffle. Make these adjustments until the ruffle length matches the skirt length.

9. Attach Ruffle and Skirt (in the flat):

Sew ruffle to skirt with right sides together. Zigzag raw edge to prevent fraying.

10. Sew Side Seam:
Open pressed edges up flat and line up side edges of skirt, with right sides together. Sew side seam to make a circle. Zigzag the raw edge to prevent fraying.

11. Hem Ruffle:
Sew the hem of the ruffle.

12. Make Casing for Elastic:
Fold pressed edge (top for casing) back in place.
Sew around the bottom edge of the top pressed area (wrong side) to form a casing for the elastic. Leave 1-2" opening near the back to insert the elastic.

13. Elastic:
Cut a piece of elastic: Waist – 2” = ______ elastic length
Thread elastic through casing. I put a safety pin in one end of the elastic and pin the other end to the skirt. Then pull the elastic through the casing. Fit the skirt to the wearer to check the elastic fit. Overlap the ends of the elastic and sew through 2-3 times. Tuck the elastic end into the casing.